In Kyoto following Kitsune

Kitsune is the Japanese word for fox... the closest thing I have to a personal Kami... though you have to add Coyote to that mix too. Yes, I am led by tricksters and wander wondering why things seem to bizarre. Spirits, fey folk, call them what you like, I am in their thrall and have no intention to leave.

After a brief conversation with my Japanese cousins Taka-chan and Ma-chan, I've decided to head out to Kyoto, since they said it was the most beautiful time of year here. And so it has been. The red maples have been in a full blaze of glorious color and everywhere I walk leaves are falling. I have spent a lot of time walking. Some time biking and more time seeing where I've ended up.

The first week I spent, a little sick, in the Kyoto's cheapest inn hostel. A wonderful little hostel situated between Ninjo- Castle and the Imperial Palace. I spent many hours enjoying the massive gardens in each. I rented a bike from the hostel and rode out to east one day and ended up making friends with an Australian Asian and we went adventuring together for awhile, taking pictures of all the amazing trees. At one point we attempted (and failed) at translating a "Do Not Enter" sign... with his knowledge of Chinese characters and my knowledge of Japanese grammar. We then proceeded to ignore the sign and just step over the fence and go exploring. A real adventure even including the necessary old Japanese gentleman who appeared suddenly and we had to avoid and escape from.

I went out to Kiyomizu on a day and went to a fantastic light show there. A simple light show to be sure, but really rather amazing. Essentially all it involved was lighting the fall's glorious colors up at night. So everything glowed and looked fiery. They lit a bare forest with gold so it looked like a real wonderland. But the best thing was that because it was dark, the illuminated trees reflected perfectly on the black water of the pools in the gardens, the reflections looking like they had more depth than the actual forest. It was easy to see why Asian artists are captivated by painting with color on black silk...

I went to Sagano... situated in the mountains, where there is a place where they've tamed the monkeys and you can feed them and take pictures of them, and try not to trip over them. It was nice to get away from the main city and get out in the mountains for a little.

I went to Nara where, similar to the monkeys of Sagano, there are hundreds of deer hanging around expecting to be fed crackers. I spent awhile with one that just enjoyed licking my hand. Here I have seen the most amazing wood work, wood sculpture that I think I will ever see. Amazing detail in the features including wrinkles and lines in the fingers, draping fabric, and incredible expression. Not to mention size. There was one Oni or Kami sculpture that I wouldn't reach it's knee... entirely made from wood. And the huge Buddha... comparable to Kamakura's Daibuddha which is bronze, but completely made of wood. The wood work is easily comparable to some of the master marble sculptures of Italy.

Then there is my beloved Fushimi Inari Jinja... the giant fox shrine that covers a mountain side. Open 24-hours and free, I have spent two days there and will perhaps go there once more before I leave tomorrow night. This is the famous shrine of red torii gates. Walking through them is like walking through a den. I went and walked it one night and on my way back I saw two tanuki... or japanese badgers creatures. Adorable and strange looking.

My trip has had a lot of mixed rain and sun. And I am writing this on a day of rest that I decided to take, while it rains outside, and on the eve of my departure for Hiroshima.

My trip has been filled with joys and woes. A great deal more trying than the paradise I left behind... but a paradise in it's own right. Ahh fall... the leaves that burn brilliantly before they die, set against the white of castle walls and gray of temple rooftops. Aki.